Friday Night Fritto Misto

If you find yourself in Nutley, NJ...

So basically frying things is stupendous; I don't think anyone I know would disagree. How often can you justify it though? For some it's a way of life, and the rest of us often pay for it, but for most it's a guilty pleasure. For me frying, not sauteing in oil, is an occasion, something social and momentous, so it had better be good.

Because I don't fill a pot with 2 inches of oil very often, when I do I'm tempted to just throw whatever's lying around into it. I could rifle off a list of things, some absurd just to be funny, but that would be too easy.

Frying may be intimidating to some because hot oil can seem volatile, and unlike most things, water won't tame it--in fact it makes it much scarier. Remember where your fire extinguisher is. Or, in the event the oil gets too hot or seems like it's going to have a tantrum, take the pot outside carefully and let it have a time out. Those things considered, deep frying is actually quite safe because you can maintain the temp of the oil pretty easily. And the technique of frying is about as basic as it gets. So don't be afraid, have fun!

I went to the farmer's market and got some zucchini, squash and cauliflower, then some shrimp and squid (I admit, not from the farmer's market). The plan was to fry up stuff in batches depending on demand as we stood or sat around and picked at it.

For the seafood I stuck with my standard technique of egg whites then flour for the dredging. This method gives a very crunchy yet light crust to everything, more crazy and puffy than just flour though I must warn you. Some people are purists and only want the thinnest of coatings around their delights, but I'm open-minded.

With the vegetables I decided to try a beer batter; some pilsner mixed in with some flour and an egg yolk tossed in for good measure. That way we'd be able to have some different textures and flavors.

I was thinking of cutting the canola oil I bought with some olive oil, but when the time came I relented. You can certainly do this if you want, just note that olive oil has a lower smoking point and so at best should be mixed with other oils better suited to frying (canola, vegetable, peanut, sunflower). Some places maintain that they fry exclusively in olive oil, which sounds nice, but means you need to maintain a lower temperature. Plus, I doubt they use extra virgin.

A great thing about frying, aside from how great it makes most things taste, is that it's quick. Vegetables get tender just as the crust turns golden brown in 375° oil, calamari coating achieves maximum crunch just as it hits its 2 minute window before turning to rubber. Then you dish it out and people burn their fingers and tongues to get at it. How many better ways are there to be so satisfied for so little money? Frying is the great equalizer.

To drink I was excited about a wine that I've been tracking down for a while. Probably the first vineyard I ever visited, up in Cormons on the Italian border with Slovenia. Edi Keber, the

owner, has carved out a nice business making his Friulian whites and running an Agriturismo, but until recently he didn't export them to the U.S. He claimed they wanted him to go through too many hoops (like adding sulfites) that would compromise his product. Anyway, he must have changed his mind since 2005 because I ordered a couple bottles of his Friulano Collio from a shop in New York.

On our honeymoon I kept my eyes open for it, and on our last supper I found and ordered it. But that night it wasn't meant to be; they told me it wasn't the proper temperature to serve to us since their wine fridge had broken, so we went with a Renato Keber white (no relation that I can find, but from the same town. You investigate further and report your findings to me). Edi's wine is very good and true to Friuli; crisp, balanced acidity, complex and memorable. My nostalgia is for good reason.

We knew the seafood would turn out well. The beer batter was a new direction though. It was good, more substantial with a bitter hint of yeast and hops, more inclined to absorb and hold on to oil. So it's a tossup whether I do it that again or just fry everything in whites + flour next time. If nothing else it meant a little more work switching from the different coatings, which may be the deal breaker.

I did toss in some canned chickpeas, unadorned, for the hell of it. That was as crazy as it got.

The fry was deeply satisfying, and considering the ingredients we used, not crazily unhealthy. No saturated fats were involved, and we were all very full after a plate and half at most of food. Washed down with Edi's Friulano Collio and good conversation, it made for what I consider a perfect meal.

Ingredients (For 6 people):
4 large zucchini, sliced lengthwise into sticks about an inch thick and 3-4 inches long

4 yellow squash cut the same as the zucchini

1 medium head of cauliflower, cut into florets or pieces about 2 inches wide

1 liter oil (if you use olive oil, make it about 2:1 parts vegetable to olive)

1 lb. shrimp, peeled and de-veined except for the shell at the tip

1 lb. squid, cleaned and cut into rings, leave the head/tentacles whole

Beer Batter:

1/2 12 oz. cans pilsner

About 2 cups flour (AP (sifted), 00, tempura)

1 egg yolk

Egg white dredging:

8-10 egg whites in a bowl

2 cups or so flour in a separate bowl

Equipment:

Cast Iron Dutch Oven or other heavy bottom, thick sided pot or pan or a fryer if you have one

2-4 Sheet pans with newspaper or paper towel

A spider or other utensil to retrieve and drain the morsels from the oil

Make the beer batter by whisking the beer into the flour a bit at a time until you get the consistency of thick cream. Whisk in the egg yolk and refrigerate so it's cold when you fry.

Preheat the oil in the pan to 375° using a thermometer to monitor and maintain it. To fry the seafood, start by putting a handful of it into the egg whites and submerge to coat, then drain off excess and put it in the bowl of flour. Toss to coat everything, then retrieve and shake off excess flour. Put the pieces in the oil, making sure not to crowd the pan. If the temperature falls, raise the heat temporarily to get it back around 375°. Fry the calamari 2 minutes then remove. Fry the shrimp 4 minutes then remove. Place everything on the sheet pans to drain and salt everything immediately.

For the vegetables, take a handful or so and put it in the bowl of batter, tossing around to coat everything evenly. Drain the excess batter and then place the pieces in the oil. Fry for 3-5 minutes or until golden brown and remove. Place everything on the sheet pans to drain and salt everything immediately.

If you're frying in multiple batches you can keep the finished pieces in the oven on warm. Eat as soon as possible though!