Tuesday, March 22, 2011

Spags Lasags



























In their Super Bowl Winning Season of 2007-2008, the NY Giants' Defensive Coordinator was Steve Spagnuolo, affectionately dubbed "Spags" by his players.  And I think if he were to make this dish it would be called "Spags' Lasags".

There's not too much mystery about it...a lot of people who say they don't cook still have a recipe for lasagna.  As user-friendly as it is, I will admit to struggles over the years, mainly with texture and the agony of cutting into it hot only to have it fall apart into a soupy mess when plating.  People always comforted me by saying "it still tastes delicious", covering it over with a blanket of sauce, but that was small consolation.  

Sometimes I still fly too close to the Sun and layer it too high, or I add too much watery sauce or something and it looses its rigidity, but for the most part I've found a formula that works...moderation if you can believe it.  I consider this my Italian-American lasagna, more southern Italy in style, whereas the more northern Bolognese features meat sauce and bechamel, no mozzarella or ricotta. 

There's something very familiar about the melding of flavors when you bake ricotta, mozzarella and tomato sauce together between layers of pasta.  It's like so many Christmases, birthday parties and family get-togethers rolled into one taste memory. 

When you need an inexpensive, festive and crowd- pleasing meal for a lot of people, it's as good a bet as any dish I can think of. 

Since it's been a part of my food life as long as I can remember, I don't try to do too much with it, like adding lots of herbs or different kinds of cheeses.  But good, fresh ingredients will take it from satisfying to memorable...fresh pasta was never part of tradition for me, but I've since begun making it requisite and there's no looking back.  I haven't gotten to the point of making my own ricotta for this recipe, but I get more zealous with age, so it's only a matter of time.     

Ingredients:
32 oz. fresh mozzarella, grated or run through a food processor
32 oz. ricotta
Basic tomato sauce, recipe follows
Fresh pasta dough, recipe follows
1/2 lb. Parmigiano Reggiano, grated, plus more for garnish
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
Optional: herbs like basil, oregano, or thyme


Preheat the oven to 375° F.

Get your mis en place ready; have all your components arranged for easy access, step by step.  Drizzle the olive oil then ladle some sauce into the bottom of a deep baking dish, enough to form an even coating.  Place sheets of pasta (that's right, no need to par boil or anything!) cut to the size of the dish long ways, slightly overlapping.  On top of this gently spread a layer of ricotta (don't worry if it's not totally even and covering every inch of surface, it'll spread out during cooking).  Then sprinkle some of the grated mozzarella, followed by Parmigiano Reggiano, and herbs if you want to use them. 

 

Begin the next layer by ladling on sauce, followed by pasta, going across the pan short ways, and repeat as before.  Do this for as many more layers as you can manage, alternating direction of the pasta sheets and cutting them to size.  For the top layer, I like just sauce and Parmigiano Reggiano, but you can do mozzarella as well if you like.  Bake in the oven for 45 to 60 minutes uncovered, until the edges are bubbling and browned.


I like to let mine cool an hour before slicing and serving, or I let it cool longer and then reheat on warm in the oven before slicing and serving.  Plate with some more tomato sauce ladled on and and another sprinkle of Parmigiano Reggiano.  Take your lactose pill and enjoy!

Basic Tomato Sauce:
4 28 oz. to 32 oz. cans San Marzano Tomatoes, pureed in a food processor or blender
4 cloves garlic, minced
4 to 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
Optional: herbs like basil, oregano or thyme
Optional: 2 medium onions, finely diced
Optional: 1/2 cup to 1 cup dry white wine

Couple things...I like to puree the tomatoes before cooking, because in this way they will lose redness initially but regain it during cooking, whereas if you puree after it's been cooking a while, the sauce will end up more of a dull orange red.  No difference in taste, but I think the former looks more appetizing. 

Also, the onions and wine are optional because that sauce is something I do for part of my family who can't eat garlic.  The onions add sweetness and mellow the acid of the tomatoes for a different but good flavor nonetheless.  To make that variation, add the onions instead of the garlic, let them soften and just begin to brown, deglaze with the wine, and then proceed as you would with the other recipe.     

Turn the heat to medium and add the olive oil while the pan is still cool, then add the garlic.  Let it cook as the pan comes up to heat, rendering out the flavor of the garlic, but before the garlic gets brown add the tomato puree.  Bring it to a low boil and then let it simmer gently for 45 minutes or so, until reduced some.  Add salt and pepper to taste and any herb at this point.  It's better the next day.    

Basic Pasta Dough:
3 1/2 cups or 400 grams of 00 or all purpose flour
4 jumbo eggs
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
Optional: replace 1 cup or 100 grams of white flour with semolina

Make a well in the middle of the flour on a work surface or in a large bowl.  Add the eggs, beaten, and the olive oil, and using a fork, begin incorporating the flour, a bit at a time, into the egg.  When the wet and dry are mostly mixed, begin using your hands, pushing with your knuckles, to form a rough ball. 

Knead the dough for 8 to 10 minutes, adding just enough flour, if needed, to keep it from sticking to the work surface (and letting it rest for a couple minutes during the process if it becomes too difficult to work), stretching and folding it into itself, until it results in a smooth ball.  Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for 20 to 40 minutes. 

To make the pasta sheets, follow manufacturer instructions for a pasta roller and roll sheets to the 3rd thinnest setting.  If rolling by hand with a rolling pin, roll out until the pasta is translucent and even in thickness.      

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