Thursday, April 21, 2011

Fast n Feast: Fish n Chips



"She had fish fries and cookouts, on my child's birthday I ain't invited..."   

What a sad story...nobody should have to miss out on a fish fry, even in the midst of a nasty custody war.  I feel for Big Boi, although by now he's probably straightened things out. 

Few things for me are as enjoyable as deep fried dinner. It's not something I do regularly, so when it happens, it's got to be good. 

When dealing with a gallon or so of hot oil I regret that after the one meal it'll be discarded, but maybe someday it'll be easily applied as fuel for something else.  In the meantime I just make the most of it.  Perhaps you too can take inventory of your pantry and fridge, and try frying up anything conceivably tasty while you've got the oil primed.  But be safe!   

My taste memory of fish n chips elicits a vision of plastic food baskets lined with red and white checkered paper, soaked in the residue of a fish fillet and wrinkled fries at some place vaguely near the ocean.  The inspiration to make it recently was not with a seaside Summer in mind though, but another Lenten meal to please a crowd.  I'm not really a faster, but many people around me are, so this classic is probably the best idea someone has suggested for a casual, comforting and ironically festive dinner that keeps one in good graces.
    
If you have reasonably good ventilation in your kitchen, deep frying will prevent smoke and the smell of the sea from filling your entire house, leaving behind just the welcoming aroma of well-oiled home cooking.

Frying potatoes twice makes them; the first round just cooks them through without their gaining much of any color or crunch.  The second fry transforms them into proper chips. 

Batter for the fish can be as simple as flour and water, but beer adds some flavor and aeration, while the whipped egg whites in this recipe make for extra puffing of the crust.  The result is abundantly crunchy even though it may not be traditional according to some British commoners. 

Serves 6 (makes a lot of fries, but chances are they'll get eaten) 

Ingredients:
5 lbs. russet potatoes, washed and cut (skin on for health reasons) into sticks about 1/4 thick, but don't discard irregular nubs
1 gallon vegetable oil for frying
3 lbs. uniform pieces of whitefish such as Cod, Haddock or Tilapia, cut into fillets about 4" long or so
4 cups all purpose flour
16 oz. medium dark beer
4 egg whites
Optional: a pinch of Old Bay

Equipment:
Candy thermometer
1 or 2 deep cast iron pot(s) suitable for deep frying
5-10 sheets absorbent paper such as paper towel or newspaper
Wire skimmer for retrieving things from hot oil

Make the batter up to an hour in advance by whisking the beer into the flour and Old Bay if you're using it.  Stir enough to get out any lumps.  Whip the egg whites to soft peaks, then fold into the batter.  Refrigerate until ready to use. 


First bring the oil to a steady 320° F.  Fry the potatoes, in batches, for 2-3 minutes.  They won't be browned or crunchy at this point, just cooked through and flimsy.  Remove to absorbent paper and then a cooling rack if you have one, and let cool to room temperature. 

Preheat an oven to 200° F, convection if possible. 


For the second fry of the potatoes, bring the oil to 375° F and fry again, in batches, for 2-3 minutes until they are golden and crisp.  Remove to absorbent paper and salt immediately.  Put them in the oven to keep warm and crisp until time to serve.   


After the chips are done, bring the heat down to 350° F.  Dip the fish pieces in the batter, letting excess drain off for a second, then place them in the oil, not overcrowding it, and fry for 6-8 minutes until the crust is golden brown and the fish is cooked through. 


Serve with lemon wedges or malt vinegar and tartar sauce (just mix mayonnaise and sweet relish together to taste and refrigerate, preferably an hour or more in advance).  And ketchup of course for the chips.

6 comments:

  1. I can almost smell the salt water! I'm inspired to go buy fish today - and what better day than Good Friday. Can't wait to try.

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  2. They were so fresh and clean tasting, despite them being deep fried. And the fries were better than any you'd get from a professional establishment. It was the perfect Friday night Lenten meal :)

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  3. I am a big fish & chips fan - I'm gonna have to try this one out!

    Any recommendations on what beer to use? The first one that popped into my head when reading this was O'Hara's Irish Red (which is darker than the better known Irish Reds).

    Anything with beer in it is always good.

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  4. I wouldn't go too dark Mikester, and make sure it has a good bit of carbonation regardless. You'll want it to the improve the texture of the crust.

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  5. Roger that - what beer did you use for this particular batch?

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  6. What was in the fridge...some good old banquet beer--Coors OG that is.

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